A tilted elbow (to the left or right) that is not in a vertical plane with the forearm could be the cause. Imagine a narrow gap through which your arm has to tip forward.

The timing of the release (letting go of the dart) does not match. Concentrate on the moment of letting go.

A lower entry angle to the dartboard is ensured by a combination of shorter shafts and larger flights. Furthermore, gripping at the front of the barrel can lead to the darts being pulled instead of pushed. Pushing the darts usually creates steeper entry angles. Gripping further back could therefore provide a remedy.

The usual weight is around 22-24 grams in the steeldart area. Heavier darts provide higher flight stability and require less force.

A natural grip is important for an authentic and carefree throwing style. More fingers on the barrel ensure more control when guiding the dart.

The foot of the throwing side should also be at the front of the Oche. If you throw with your right hand, the right foot is also in front.

The dartboard is mounted at a height of 1.73m (Bullseye – Floor). The distance from the front edge of the dartboard to the throwing line is 2.37m.

A set of steel darts, a dartboard, and a marking to mark the throwing line. We also recommend a surround/catch ring to protect the wall. In addition, the dartboard should be sufficiently illuminated.

Training should be playful at the beginning without fixed goals that rob you of the fun if you don't reach them. We recommend a mixture of free throws and aiming at individual areas without going directly for doubles.

The choice of darts will change quite often at the beginning. Here, testing is better than studying. After the first few throws, you will notice which grip zones you need. Look at how you hold the dart. The contact points of the barrel should adhere well to the fingers accordingly. There are darts with notches or grip recesses for this. Straight barrels with continuous grip offer flexibility when gripping, which is why they are advisable at the beginning.